Our first evening in Naples we ate at Pizzeria Brandi. This is one of the more upscale places in town — pies were almost twice as much as you might find elsewhere and we were serenaded by a guitarist during dinner. We ordered a Margherita pie and also a a Totò — a fried calzone with ricotta, provola cheese, and cracklings. Although better than our first stop at Da Michele, these pies were soon superceded by both stops we made during day two: Salvo and Pizzeria Starita.