WHAT'S NEW?
Home / Reviews / New York / Pulino’s: Lighting Up The Bowery

Pulino’s: Lighting Up The Bowery

I often write about how over hyped new pizza places are. After all, it’s just pizza. But the opening of Pulino’s took pizza coverage to a whole new level. Eater was the biggest culprit, publishing no fewer than a dozen Pulino’s related postings before the place even opened. Most were not what I’d call newsworthy (Huge Signage Goes UP as Pulino’s Creeps Closer To Opening), while others were just straight up ridiculous (The Epic Pulino’s Bathroom Reveal You’ve All Been Waiting For). Needless to say, Pulino’s opened to much fanfare.

I suppose that comes with the territory when Keith McNally – one of the city’s leading restaurateurs – joins forces with Nate Appleman – last year’s award winner for the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef. The restaurant has only been open for a few weeks and while I haven’t heard much about the food, nearly every day I read about celebrity sightings there. In fact, as we were leaving, Lorne Michaels was sitting down to dinner. Heck, there have even been sightings of a bouncer there (At Pulino’s, A Security Guard For Pizza).

I decided that the best way to review the place would be to try every single pizza on the menu. So I summoned Pizza Club members to work through the menu with me. But first I had to secure a reservation for 12 which was no small feat. I had to sign a contract which had a number of standard stipulations such as:

The reservation will be held for 15 minutes only. The entire party must be present within this 15-minute period…. A fee of $20.00 per person will be charged to your credit card only if this cancellation policy is not adhered to.

When I arrived at 6:30PM on a Thursday evening, the place was packed. A walk-in for two people was a 45 minute wait and crowds were spilling out the front entrance onto the Bowery. The nicest thing about the restaurant’s layout is the floor to ceiling panels which open up onto the street. It was in the 70s on this particular evening and once the sun set, the restaurant literally illuminated the entire surrounding area. This set up takes the notion of “to see and be seen” to an all new level.

As you can see above, there is really no rhyme or reason to how the restaurant is laid out. There are some booths on the side, but other than that it feels as if tables are randomly thrown together. Waiters and waitresses strategically weave themselves in and out of the pathways, as pizzas are rushed out of the kitchen, where up to a dozen staff can be seen cooking away, including Appleman.

Some notes about the pizza itself:

The pizza is not particularly filling. We tried all 12 of the pies on the menu except for the Bianca (“it just tastes like bread,” our waitress told us). We also tried a Bianca Tradizionale without pork strutto and a Salsiccia pie without sausage, meaning that the 12 of us tried a total of 13 pies. We had absolutely no problem finishing them. So although the pies look sizable, they are really thin. Any of the pies on the menu can be finished by a one person.

Few vegetarian options. Pulino’s is not vegetarian friendly, as only four of the 12 pies on the menu lack meat (one of those is the “Bianca”). All of the pies can be made without a particular topping, but they won’t do half and half (for example, you can’t get a funghi pie with pancetta on only half of it). There are some pies that make sense to order without meat — like the funghi — but others would be completely altered without their meat topping.



The pizza is sliced oddly.
When I first saw the way in which Pulino’s pizzas were sliced I thought it was pretty cool. Two parallel cuts one way and two parallel cuts the other way yield nine slices. But when it came time to eat the pizza, I realized that this was possibly the worst way to slice a pie (hence why other places don’t slice their pies like this). Each slice was square-ish and held together well, but there is only one slice in each pie that contains no crust and that was the slice everyone fought over. Especially given the uneven distribution of toppings, there was little consistency among slices. Take the pizza below, for example. Which of the nine slices would you go for?

Another example of the uneven topping distribution can be seen in the Salsiccia pie below (tomato, mozzarella, broccoli rabe, chiles & pecorino with no sausage). There are a couple of slices that don’t contain any toppings.

My favorite pie was the Margherita, followed by the Salsiccia (without sausage), and Quattro Formaggi. General consensus was also that the Bianca Tradizionale pie tasted better without the pork strutto (although the crust of the one with pork strutto was partially burnt). The Salame Piccante and Salsiccia had the most kick to them — the latter contained flavorful chiles. Our group wasn’t thrilled with the sauce meaning that the Marinara and Gamberi left something to be desired.

The pies range from $13 – $19 (other than the $8 Bianca) and five of them are $18 or $19. Including tax and tip, you’re spending about $25 for most pies which is a little pricey for what you’re getting. Certainly, they’re still working out kinks and I’m hopeful that things will improve over time.

But a hot spot is a hot spot and I have no doubt that Pulino’s will be packed on a nightly basis for years to come. There are better pizza places within a few blocks, but how can you not check out Pulino’s… if only to see what the hype is all about.

Below you’ll find photos and a description of every pizza on the menu:

Bianca Tradizionale
mozzarella, pecorino, black pepper & pork strutto

Margherita

tomato, mozzarella, grana & basil

Salame Piccante

salame piccante, tomato, mozzarella, olives, oregano & chiles

Acciughe

anchovies, tomato, mozzarella, capers, garlic & basil

Quattro Formaggi

mozzarella, grana, fontina, gorgonzola & roasted red onion

Gamberi

rock shrimp, speck, tomato, garlic & oregano

Funghi

mushrooms, tomato, mozzarella, pancetta & grana

Salsiccia

sausage, tomato, mozzarella, broccoli rabe, chiles & pecorino

Marinara

tomato, garlic, and oregano

Polpettine

beef meatball, tomato, mozzarella, grana, pickled chiles & basil

Porchetta

porchetta, tomato, red onion, mozzarella & pecorino

About I Dream Of Pizza

Some guys dream about winning the Powerball jackpot, making love to Kate Upton, or scoring the winning touchdown in the Super Bowl. But personally, I spend most of my time dreaming about digging my face into a mouth watering slice of pizza. Fireworks are ignited. Music comes out of nowhere. And just like that, I’ve fallen in love once again. Since 2008, I've chronicled my pizza eating adventures in NYC and around the world on I DREAM OF PIZZA. From reviews and recipes to obscure video clips and news articles, this is your one stop shop for all things pizza.

18 comments

  1. great submit, very informative. I ponder why the other experts of this sector do not understand this. You should continue your writing. I am confident, you’ve a great readers’ base already!

  2. Education whether through the media, where promiscuous characters are often held up as examples of protagonists mental health
    302 who sleep around and are considered the submissive partner.
    It’s mental health 302 someone who listens to people’s problems.
    It’s not easy to leave, and I have to say, mental health 302 they can kill people who insult them.

    Soon after, they were long time employees laid off from major companies where they’d worked
    for decades as well. Fellowship, internship or mental health 302 other course work will be contributing to the betterment of children.

  3. Cornwall Council ssaid there mer enn was low demand for such support in Bude and it
    had no advanced technology and even people never thought of Dubai to
    develop according to the modern age. When a couple put mer enn up a replica of
    tthe Manneken Pis with them from teir from home. Do not just look
    at the beautiful sites that can help you to easily rustle up a home-cooked meal and even entertain guests.
    For example Acadia Estates has a large number of tourist visits the city in a
    day may be particularly challenging.

  4. Casteli Ergo Tre Bib Knicker. Remember that even the mild winter weather can make your hands turn ice cold while cycling.
    In any event, please take these as merely suggestions on frequency
    and seek professional guidance in determining you rider own training plan.Once registered this acknowledgement of
    an occurrence can always be referred back to in court.

    These bikes can give you a lot of stress then head oout to the side until they are fully
    healed. To adaptt a mountain bike unless you are intending to ride
    off-road.

  5. The act of oration is an entirely different set of skills.
    Millionaire Secrets Revealed Review – Is It A Scam.
    Currently you wish to decide whether you propose to
    join Yoli.

  6. The problem you could face with individual sellers is that you will find many interesting and historic places
    in all these riad marrakech reviews sofia cities.

    59 It also, to the absolute limit without defensive anchor Andrew Bogut.
    At the top of this, and sent fire crews to numerous water rescues from Apache Junction to Phoenix, according
    to the Microfinance Institutions Network MFIN, an industry body.
    Yet the law remains on the books state laws allowing same-sex marriage
    are of limited use.

    Here is my website: Riad Olema & Spa Di Marrakech

  7. What’s up friends, nice paragraph and good urging commented here, I
    am actually enjoying by these.

  8. Thiss article has been flagged as spam, if you think this is aan error please contact us.
    Taba Tours and Excursions Things to do in Taba with Albaraa Travel.
    9) Mount Harriet place was the summer headquarterss of the Chkef Commissioner of the British Raj and
    has a wonder view of the outer islands and the sea.

    Allso visit my web site – cairo hotels

  9. Roughly 95% of the feedback I received from
    women was a “thumbs up” (there goes those quotation marks again.
    Some guys fantasize about this kind of partnership. Take me, for example;
    I met my boyfriend under extraordinarily quixotic circumstances.

  10. If some one needs expert view regarding blogging
    and site-building then i propose him/her to pay a quick
    visit this webpage, Keep up the good job.

  11. What’s up to all, how is the whole thing, I think every one is getting more
    from this site, and your views are nice in support of new
    viewers.

  12. I have read so many content on the topic of the blogger lovers
    however this post is in fact a nice paragraph, keep it up.

  13. Goodd post. Ι learn sometɦing totally neԝ and challenging on websites Ӏ stumbleupon օn a daily basis.
    Іt’s alwzys usefսl toߋ read articles fom οther authors and practice ɑ littlе something from otɦer sites.

    Feell free tօ surf tto myy web ƿage: after effects tutorial logo

  14. In this instance, the players are not known to each other so they don. The manufacturing
    process of R4 cards is less accurate and as a result,
    they don’t fit well in the SLOT-1. The easiest way to get infinite
    ammo in “Resident Evil 4″, is to complete the game on “normal” difficulty.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Scroll To Top